A strongly accented rendition of Jessie J’s ‘Price Tag’ blasts over the stalls as you pick your way carefully over the disused track. There’s everything from stuffed toys to deep fried dumpling skins (quite nice, by the way)- and the clothes stalls aren’t just your average street market fare- there’s secondhand Tommy Hilfiger and Levi’s in some of the shops.. and American Apparel sweaters if you have the heat-tolerance of a Thai.
Built on the site of an old train station, Talat Rot Fai night market (or Train Market Srinakarin) appears to be a favoured Bangkok hipster haunt. But don’t worry- it’s more trendy than hipster, and I didn’t find any organic or vegan food.
It’s a bit awkward to get to however. Take the sky train to Udom Suk, walk around the corner to Soi Sukhumvit 103 (you’ll go past another night market) and take a red songthaew to the very last stop. The songthaew costs 7 baht, press one of the buttons when you want to get off, and you pay through the driver’s window at the very end. When you pass a very large shopping centre, you’re practically there.
Riding in the songthaew was a new and mildly unnerving experience. There is nothing to stop you or your possessions from tumbling out of the back every time the driver accelerates- which is often, given the nature of Bangkok traffic (the mindset seems to be drive as fast as you can, while you can)- and nothing to stop passing motorcycles plucking bags out as they pass, so keep a tight hold on everything.
There’s an abundance of very trendy-looking bars, live music, antique stores and food. The squid skewers are cheap, perfectly soft and barbequed in front of you (the chilli sauce it gets coated in is a bit spicy though). There are burgers, kebabs, a large number of places selling bubble and ice tea, and the usual plethora of Thai dishes.
No foreigners as far as the eye could see, but many of the signs are in English.